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Fashion historian James Laver quoted a contemporary writer who declared in 1876: it is now impossible to describe dresses with exactitude: the skirts are draped so mysteriously, the arrangements of trimmings is usually so one-sided and the fastenings are so curiously contrived that if I study any particular toilette for even a quarter of an hour the task of writing down how it is all made remains hopeless. (190) The silhouette of the first half of the 1870s was also defined by a higher than natural waistline and lower sloped shoulders